Many species require algae in their diets too. Add algae eaters when the first algae growths become visible and they will help to control it. Proprietary algae-based foods will also include essential vitamins for algae grazing shrimp and fish. If the algae is consumed entirely algae eaters will go hungry, so then they will need regular feeding, just like your other fish.
As well as needing light, algae also need nutrients in order to thrive. In the aquarium, algae nutrients can come in the form of nitrate and phosphates. Nitrate is the byproduct of biological filtration and builds up, and phosphates can come from fish food, fish waste, and tap water.
Control nitrate and phosphates with nitrate and phosphate removal resins and you may combat algae. Nitrate and phosphate free water can also be created by using a reverse osmosis unit, and ideally a deionizer, to ensure that the water being changed is nitrate and phosphate free.
We have found this one-two punch strategy quite effective at greatly reducing algae to unnoticeable amounts. Brown and sometimes green diatom looks like a dusty, flour-like substance covering your aquarium walls, substrate, and other surfaces.
Diatom algae is most commonly seen in newly planted tanks and is often caused by high levels of phosphates and silicates. BBA is one of the most problematic algae that people run into because not many things eat it. As per its name, it grows in very thick, bushy clumps that are usually black or grey in color but sometimes reddish or brownish.
This algae likes to grow on driftwood, aquarium decor, and plants, and if left unchecked, it can completely engulf an aquarium in one to two years. Just be careful because certain plants like vallisneria are sensitive to liquid carbon. The dying algae turns red or clear, and animals may eat it in its weakened state. Just remember that there are no quick fixes — BBA can take six to eight months to get established, so expect it to take at least that long to get rid of.
These algae can be problematic because they grow so rapidly or are hard to get rid of. Therefore, try decreasing your lighting period, increasing fertilization, or decreasing iron. Siamese algae eaters, amano shrimp, molly fish, and Florida flagfish are good candidates to use as clean-up crew. You can also help them by manually removing large clumps using a toothbrush. GSA looks like tiny, hard green spots on the aquarium walls and slower growing plants that are very difficult to clean off.
A lot of things can cause an outbreak, such as too much light or an imbalance of phosphate. Try using a glass-safe or acrylic-safe algae scraper with the blade attachment to remove the algae from aquarium walls. Nerite snails are also a good first line of defense since they seem to like eating GSA. However, excessive light in the presence of a source of nutrients we discuss this below can send algae into hyperdrive. Too much light can come from placing your aquarium in a sunny window, leaving the tank light on too long, or using a light that is too strong for the aquarium.
Plants need nutrients to grow. For most algae that means nitrate and phosphate, which typically come from fish food and fish waste, but they can be in tap water as well. Performing water changes with nutrient-laden tap water will have the same effect. Lack of water changes and proper maintenance causes a gradual deterioration of water quality. Over time this creates an ideal environment for algae to grow. Since we can't see nutrients, we have no idea how bad conditions are until something bad happens, like our fish getting sick or an algae bloom occurring.
Avoid placing your aquarium in a sunny window. If you can't avoid doing so, install background material or draw the shades during the daytime to eliminate as much sunlight from hitting your tank as possible. If your aquarium doesn't receive direct light but is in a bright room, keep the tank light off during the day.
Choose a light suitable for the size and water depth of your aquarium. If you don't have live plants, you don't need a super-powerful light. Planted aquariums need 8 to 12 hours of light daily, while non-planted aquariums can get by on 6 hours or less. Regular water changes are essential to maintaining a healthy aquarium and preventing algae outbreaks.
Siphon out uneaten food and other organic material and lightly vacuum the gravel. Avoid vacuuming gravel if you have a newly set up aquarium or a planted tank that uses substrate fertilizers. Make sure replacement water is free of nitrate and phosphate.
Replace hang-on filter cartridges monthly, and service canister filters regularly. Rinse or replace mechanical filter media and change activated carbon or other chemical media every 4 to 6 weeks. Test your aquarium water regularly for nitrate and phosphate and take steps to correct levels that are too high. With proper light, nutrients, temperature and carbon dioxide, they can multiply quickly.
You cannot completely eliminate algae, but you can control their growth. Most kinds of algae proliferate due to light. Depending on the type of algae indicated above, you can either limit or increase light exposure. Sunlight, in particular, accelerates algae growth but decreases brown algae.
Ideally, an aquarium with plants should receive 10 hours of light daily and those without plants should only be exposed to light for 6 to 8 hours. Clean the aquarium water periodically, depending on how many litres of water the tank holds.
Make sure to also clean your aquarium filter as often as you clean your aquarium tank. Test your water to check if the phosphate, ammonia and nitrate levels are too high. Scrub the glass walls, aquarium equipment and decorations. You may use a toothbrush to get into tricky corners, an abrasive sponge or a special algae scraper. If your aquarium is relatively big, you can buy algae cleaners with a two-way magnet so you can clean the algae from the outside of the aquarium.
The one we use can be found for a few dollars on Amazon. Soak the gravel and sand in algae-control products and wash them thoroughly. Certain shrimps and fishes feed on algae. Amano shrimps are the most common freshwater shrimp used to control algal growth in aquariums. This shrimp species also feast on dead plant leaves. Catfishes are commonly used to control algal growth. Cory catfish does a good job of eating not only algae but also bits of fish food that have settled on the gravel.
Plecostomus or plecos catfish is a good choice if you have a large aquarium.
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